Panerai Invites Nendo To Give Time Figurative Form

After its debut at Tokyo Design Week, the installation exhibition ‘SLICE OF TIME’ commissioned by Panerai and commissioned by NENDO was moved to Milan Furniture Exhibition. This installation is inspired by the concept of time and the interaction between time and design. Panerai has always been known for its superb watch design. Especially during the Milan Furniture Fair, Palazzo Visconti, a magnificent site, presented the ‘Slice of Time’ installation exhibition to celebrate excellent design. The installation presents abstract time in a concrete form, and explores ‘lapsed time’ under the ingenuity of the famous Japanese designer Oki Sato and his studio nendo.

   The designer first produced a transparent empty case that looks like a watch, reflecting Panerai’s minimalist design projects, showing the brand’s classic digital hour markers and the shape of the case. Through stamping technology, the designer stretched the work to 16 meters, which became the initial shape of the installation. During the exhibition, the tubular ’empty case watch’ was cut into small pieces one by one in front of the visitor. The time required for each cut was reflected in the thickness of the finished product and became different thicknesses.

Panerai President Angelo Bonati and the founder of NENDO Design Studio are located at Palazzo Visconti, where the ‘Slice of Time’ installation exhibition venue is located.

The shape is like the transparent empty case of the watch, reflecting Panerai’s minimalist design items, showing the brand’s classic digital hour markers and the shape of the case.

Through stamping technology, the designer stretched the work to 16 meters, which became the initial shape of the installation. During the exhibition, the tubular ’empty case watch’ was cut into small pieces one by one in front of the visitor. The time required for each cut was reflected in the thickness of the finished product and became different thicknesses.
   There is a ring-shaped workshop at the site for polishing, sandblasting and assembly. In the working room, each process is also performed in a ring-shaped space, so that the processing is interlocked like a gear, and the production of the watch case is a ritual of 10 minutes. The tubular ’empty case watch’ becomes shorter with the passage of time. When it disappears, it is the end of the exhibition. The installation is like an hourglass, which makes people clearly perceive the passage of time and present a concrete ‘time’ form.

Designer Oki Sato poses with a tubular ’empty case’.
   By transforming ‘time’ into ‘length’, Nendo deduces the concept of time in an original way, including a circular time period, and the relativity brought about by the thickness of different cases, successfully presenting the abstract concept in a concrete form and becoming Unique pieces for customers to collect.
Panerai classic design
   Panerai’s watch design is impressive, and it stands in the fine watchmaking world. As early as the 1930s and 1940s, Panerai has designed underwater watches for naval use. The watch is sturdy and durable, and every detail has been carefully considered to perform the required function. Panerai watches are clean and simple, and their classic designs are famous in the world of fine watchmaking. Panerai has actively sponsored various projects that support design culture over the years to praise the brand’s excellent design. A number of international cooperation projects have emerged, including the ‘O ” co-organized with the Triennale Design Museum in Milan. ‘Clock’ exhibition, retail store design concepts conceived in collaboration with Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola, and sponsored a number of events, including Design Miami (USA) and London Design Festival (UK). Panerai promises to continue to vigorously promote design in the future, and to establish its position as an international outstanding design advocate.
Panerai
   Founded in Florence in 1860, Panerai was originally a watchmaker, shop and watchmaker’s academy. For many years, it has provided accurate timekeeping equipment for the Italian Navy, mainly designing products for the needs of diving special forces. Development projects such as Luminor and Radiomir watches have long been regarded as military secrets. Until the brand was acquired by the Richemont Group in 1997, these watches were launched on the international market. Today, Panerai opened a watchmaking factory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, to develop and manufacture its own movements and watches, combining pure Italian design and excellent Swiss watchmaking skills. Panerai watches are available at authorized dealers and specialized stores around the world.
NENDO
   nendo is a design studio founded in 2002. Chief designer and founder of nendo, Oki Sato, was born in Toronto, Canada in 1977. He was awarded the Master of Architecture degree by Waseda University in Tokyo in 2002. He has since been active in many design fields, including graphic and product design, Furniture, installation art, display windows, and interior design are all more involved in the architectural world. He was selected as one of the ‘Top 100 Most Admired Japanese’ by Newsweek in New York, and was appreciated by authoritative magazines such as Wallpaper and ELLE DECOR. Honors and other important awards. The Museum of Modern Art in New York (MoMA), the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris (Musée des Arts Décoratifs) and the Centre Pompidou all have exhibits from the studio of nendo.

Mb & F Collaborates With Stepan Sarpaneva To Create A Stunning Watch Moonmachines

MoonMachines is part of the MB & F ‘Performing Arts’ series – ‘Performing Arts’ watches are a collaboration between brands and external artists or designers to reinterpret existing limited production of watches and clocks or special projects Watches. Maybe you also have these ‘Performing Arts’ such as the HM2.2 ‘Black Box’ watch designed by Alain Silberstein, the JWLRYMachine created in collaboration with Boucheron, or the unique ‘Only Watch’ watch created by the brand and artists from various countries. The watch is fresh in memory.
Each of these special projects makes the brand very happy, but co-producing MoonMachines with Stepan Sarpaneva is probably the smoothest collaboration, because he is not only a talented watchmaker, but also cares about humanistic values, which makes the two It becomes easier for creators to work together (according to Maximilian Büsser).

Stepan is a true independent watchmaker unfettered by traditional thinking. He returned to his homeland of Finland after working in Switzerland for 10 years. His design combines mastery of watchmaking skills with his own unique creativity to attract people’s attention. If you are familiar with the watches he creates, you can recognize the symbolic characteristics of his design elements at a glance: the face of an iconic moon.
Sarpaneva’s DNA is injected into this new line of watchmaking machines.
In order to create MoonMachine, Stepan rotates HM3 Frog by 90 degrees, and adds the moon phase complication of his uniquely created unique moon phase icon to the starry sky of the Big Dipper.

The moon phases indicated by a pair of hand-polished moons can be seen through a corona-shaped window, and the northern hemisphere automatic disk made of 22K gold and stainless steel sets the best background for the moon phase disk: the stars are laser Cut to reflect light from the bottom of the movement. Surprisingly: The sky full of stars is actually a rotating automatic disk, which not only gives MoonMachine a vitality, but also really gives the moon phase complex functions and movements the power.
HM3 Frog has enough space on the dial side to allow watchmakers to sway freely, so the bird screen was chosen as the platform for MoonMachine’s creation. In addition, the frog-eyed indicator ball is more reminiscent of the moon colony in science fiction. Building.
MoonMachine is available in three limited editions, each produced in 18 pieces, including titanium, black titanium, and rose gold.
Source: MB & F

Saint Honoré Launches New Coloseo Chronograph

The dynamic design of this new generation of round watches is more bold and ergonomic.
The 44mm ultra-thin case design is very fashionable, while embodying the contemporary style interpreted by the crown and the bridge protecting the crown. That ‘falling’ corner ensures that the strap fits perfectly on the wrist. In short, all the design details of this watch will trigger an extremely rare wave of elegance.

This quartz stopwatch reveals its excellent quality and versatility: the two buttons of the case perfectly blend with the appearance of the case, the pure leather strap is adjusted to a thickness of only a few millimeters, and the center of the dial There are two timers and a large date display. The key is to be on the right side and ensure that the watch remains perfectly readable in all circumstances.
From its quartz timer or fully automatic performance, this Coloseo further confirms the Saint Honoré brand’s know-how for men’s watches.
Source: Saint Honoré
www.saint-honore-paris.com

Go Straight To Basel, Nevele Magnificently Interprets The German Hollow Watch

Although the 2014 Basel International Jewellery and Watch Fair is nearing the end, it has not affected the enthusiasm of the exhibitors and the media. For the German watch fans who are familiar with the Perpetual Group, those surprise watches at the show always show their unexpected design feelings and become their long-term conversation after dinner. Now let’s take stock of the new Nieve watches from the Basel Group at Basel.

  From Nieve in 1936, it was formerly a legendary jewellery store—Kremer, which is now one of the largest and oldest watch and jewelry stores in South Germany. Neveel insists on making in Germany. From design to production, it is done in the German workshop. To ensure the best quality, its raw materials are selected from Germany and Switzerland.
  The questionnaire, tourbillon, and perpetual calendar are hailed as the invention of three major complex watch movements of the century. In addition, Nieve is also good at making enamel dials. Its unique feature is the introduction of 100% full-hand engraving technology on the surface design with a diameter of only 42mm, fully showing the unique style of combining art and machinery. The skeletonized watch introduced at the Basel exhibition this time shows the technical beauty of high-end watches.

  The exquisite and meticulous carving art is integrated into the hollow dial, and the vivid image of the panlong is gorgeously presented. The combination of long-standing Chinese dragon elements and high-end German watchmaking skills is stunningly embellished with beautiful crystals, like glittering fashion accessories on the wrist, enough to focus on countless flashes. The slender gourd-shaped hands, the pleated gold-plated case, the carved pumpkin-shaped crown, and the careful attention to detail have witnessed the high-end quality of the Nevere brand.

  In addition to hollow-out watches, Nieve also launched a series of new products at the Basel show. Among them, the innovation series once again took innovation as the highlight and won many participants to stop and appreciate. Resolute and tough coated stainless steel case, a high-end model tailored for the modern business crowd. The gentleman’s simple dial, engraved with embossed round hour markers, and pencil-shaped hour markers are creative. The high-end equipment of the mechanical movement is blessed with a distinguished and elegant leather strap, which is highly suitable for modern men’s pursuit of life taste.

  The new products launched by Nieve’s succession series are as precious as ever, and they inherit the extraordinary craftsmanship while also adding design changes. The classic and romantic Paris-neusseau decorative dial highlights the sense of nobility of time. A sapphire glass with a diamond hardness comparable to the high-definition multi-function type. The slender hands add a vivid mix of blue and red to add cleverness to the dial. The domineering crown and black leather strap highlight the outstanding temperament of a charming man.
  At the 2014 Basel show, like the high-end and high-value Nevele brand, Zeppelin, a subsidiary of the Berbide Group, Jacob Jenson, Elysee, Messerschmitt, Messerschmitt, British Gersoll Ingersoll, Braun Braun brand is not inferior.

  The company is headquartered in Hamburg, Germany, and has branches in London, England and Xiamen, China. Since 2003, the Perpetual Group has been committed to bringing high-quality European watch wear experience to Chinese consumers, becoming the general agent in China of many well-known watch brands in Germany and other European countries, with formal sales authorization. , Responsible for all-round marketing of the brand in China. At present, the chain is developed in two ways: direct flagship stores and authorized franchising. There are physical retail stores in first-tier cities such as Qingdao, Dalian, Shenzhen, and Chengdu.
并非 For the Bebelde Group, which is not the first time to participate, attending the 2014 Basel Watch Fair is more a mentality of showing German design and sharing the latest models, showing more authentic German watches to watch fans and media. At the same time, the Bebel Group hopes to find more like-minded partners, seize the current good opportunities of German watches in China, and create a brighter future.
The above is the 2014 Basel watch related information carefully prepared by the staff in front of the Watch House. In the future, we will continue to provide more and more intuitive exhibition reports for everyone, please pay attention to it. (Picture / text watch home Li Shuai)

2014 Basel Watch Show Special Website:

Louis Vuitton Statement Indicates That Sales Did Not Slow Down Excessively In The Third Quarter Of 2012

Recently, the top French luxury goods group Louis Vuitton said that the growth of its flagship brand Louis Vuitton in the third quarter has not experienced a significant slowdown compared to the second quarter. The group’s statement lowered the concerns of investors who feared that after enjoying many years of rapid growth, the brand’s growth has lost momentum, especially in Asia.
   ‘There was no significant slowdown in the third quarter compared to the second quarter,’ Jean-Jacques Guiony, chief financial officer of the Louis Vuitton Group, said at a conference on Tuesday. However, there were some slowdowns, especially in Asia China, the passenger flow in China this year is lower than last year.

   The chief financial officer said that there had been no reductions in the order of Louis Vuitton products, including embossed canvas bags worth 600 euros.
   LV is the world’s largest luxury brand with sales of more than 7 billion euros, accounting for 75% of the total sales of the Louis Vuitton Group. Luxury investors are worried that Chinese customers will no longer like brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci because they know fashion better. Some investors also believe that the Chinese government’s suppression of the conspicuous consumption that has grown as a result of this has led Chinese consumers to choose brands that are not very high-end and to be more cautious about luxury consumption.
    A report released on Monday showed that China has become the number one luxury goods market over Japan, the United States and Europe. But the situation here has also become more and more complicated, and people’s consumption patterns have changed from excessively inclined logo brands to completely high-quality products. Chinese consumers are still waiting and watching.

Athens Blue Toro Limited Edition Perpetual Calendar

This high-tech perpetual calendar uses a self-winding caliber developed by the Athens Watch Factory and has dual time zone functions. It is the easiest and most time-tested perpetual calendar watch in history. Blue Toro’s limited edition perpetual calendar has a striking appearance. It uses innovative materials and stylish dial design. It has the aesthetic characteristics of the watch and also inspired the name of the watch. The watch’s outer ring and quick-adjustment buttons are made of high-tech ceramics; the design of the hollow hands makes it easy to read the date display of the four lattice windows; the design of the bottom of the watch allows the wearer to play the wonderful and complex movement of the Athens watch.

• All functions can be adjusted by a single crown. Even in 2100 AD, when other perpetual calendars had to be returned to the factory to adjust the errors, the Athens ‘El Toro Challenger’ perpetual calendar can simply enter the new century by turning the date back by one day.
• Equipped with a patented hour hand quick adjustment button, there is no need to remove the watch, just press the (+) (-) quick adjustment key to quickly adjust the second time and date, allowing people to grasp the minutes and seconds.
• Arrow-shaped hands can indicate home or second time.
• Pioneered the dual-window large date display of the watch, and created the first reversible movement design. The four windows of year, month, date and day of the week can be adjusted back and forth quickly by using the (+) (-) button. The unique design is patented. , Is a perfect example of Athens’s homemade movement.
• The wearer can appreciate the beauty of the movement of the 22K gold automatic disc from the see-through rear caseback; the power reserve is about 45 hours.
The El Toro Challenger Perpetual Calendar watch is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Agency (C.O.S.C.) to ensure the reliability and accuracy of the watch.

Technical Information
Model: 326-00-3
Movement: Automatic UN-32 movement, 34 stones
Kinetic energy: about 45 hours
Functions: Perpetual calendar function, single crown adjustment of all functions; second time zone time display in the central position, patented hour hand quick adjustment device; third hand indicating home time; patented double window large date display
Case: 18K rose gold with blue ceramic bezel
Size: 43 mm
Water resistance: 100 meters
Dial: Blue / Silver Plated
Surface: anti-glare and wear-resistant sapphire crystal
Case back: wear-resistant sapphire crystal
Crown: Screw-in crown
Strap: rubber strap with titanium / enamel folding buckle; crocodile leather strap with folding buckle

Go To Vacheron Constantin House In Shanghai And Appreciate The Extraordinary Watch Culture

No. 796 Huaihai Middle Road, Shanghai is a Shanghai style building built in 1927. It has typical neoclassical architectural features. It was the earliest private house for Jiang Bingsheng on Shanghai. The ‘Shanghai Vacheron Constantin House’ is located here. Among the old houses. Entering ” is like synchronizing into the art hall of a high-end watch.

In the process of repairing this building early in 2006, the designers of Vacheron Constantin designed noble and elegant traditional walnut furniture and display cabinets on the basis of retaining the original wooden stairs and stained glass. For 200 years, the founders of Vacheron Constantin have been painstakingly selecting and repairing each flagship store. They hope to find the right place to show the outstanding watchmaking technology to the public through a beautiful environment. Here is an ancient pendulum that has been baptized for several times, describing Vacheron Constantin’s persistence for more than two hundred years. Antique watchmaking tools are copper-colored, silently explaining the rigor and dedication of watchmakers to every guest who enters here.

On the first floor, in the watch and clock exhibition hall, very scarce goods such as Vacheron Constantin’s mask series shine in the showcase. From the brand communications manager Zhang Yuwei, this is the most complete place of Vacheron Constantin’s products in Asia.

Alexandr Alexandre Kerguen, a watchmaker at headquarters in Shanghai for a long time, is in charge of the customer service center, providing customers with watch repair and maintenance, including cleaning, planing, and polishing. As long as you have time, you can drink red wine, smoke cigars, and learn about the collection of watches with watch craftsmen from Geneva. Customers can also see the watchmaker repair the watch with his own eyes, and the watches with complicated functions must be sent Back to Geneva headquarters for repairs. The Vacheron Constantin House also has a hidden VIP watch safe service room, where customers can deposit 14 watches, which are regularly maintained and maintained by watchmakers.

爱好者 For watch collection enthusiasts, it is a treat to watch watchmakers make every watch pointer, and to pursue endless details on the technical and aesthetic level.

日内瓦 The watchmakers from Geneva showed these old and complicated, traditional and modern handicrafts live. Not only that, Vacheron Constantin also offers ‘special custom workshops for attic artisan workshops’ for Chinese collectors. The guests talked happily with the watchmaker about the collection and selection of watches. Every collector loves that a watch designed and customized according to their needs is more distinctive and attractive.

1815 ──exploring Time Lange 1815 And Saxony’s Important Invention

Lange’s 1815 watch series is reminiscent of Ferdinando Adolf Lange, the founder of the Saxony precision watch industry born in Dresden in the same year. 1815 was also a turning point in European history: Napoleon returned from the last battle in Waterloo. The Vienna Conference established a new international order. Innovative inventions have also accelerated the advent of the industrial age and brought endless inspiration to young people like Ferdinando Adolf Lange. The David Safety Light, introduced in 1815, is one of the new inventions.

 Deep underground: miner safety lights and 1815 RATTRAPANTE PERPETUAL CALENDAR under the ‘Reiche Zeche’ mine in Freiberg, Saxony. Since pocket watches were rare at the time, miner’s lamps also had a time display function. Workers are accustomed to calculating the working hours by the duration of the miner’s light.

 The mining industry, which has been the source of Saxony’s wealth since the Middle Ages, ushered in a major breakthrough in 1815. This has since saved the lives of thousands of miners worldwide and enabled the development of new resources. In 1815, the British chemist Humphry Davy successfully developed a safety light, eliminating a major threat to underground work at the time by miners, which was the explosion of biogas. When the concentration of biogas in a mine reaches a critical level, even the smallest spark can cause a fatal explosion.

 David observed that when a highly explosive biogas / air mixture was confined to a narrow metal tube with a diameter of less than 3.5 mm, it would not ignite. This inspired him to place the flame of a miner’s lamp in a round tube wrapped in a tight mesh. The result was very successful. The thermal conductivity of the metal kept the temperature of the flammable gas below the ignition point, thereby preventing the explosion of biogas. Another benefit of this invention is that any biogas entering the tube through the metal mesh will light blue fire at the top of the flame. Now, miners can judge the concentration of biogas around the air through the size of this aperture.

 However, David lamps also have the disadvantage that the smoke and dust formed on the screen will reduce the brightness. However, the quick Saxons quickly found a workaround. In 1884, Carl Wolf from Zwickau was awarded a patent for a gasoline lamp with a borosilicate glass tube. This lamp does not accumulate soot and burns brighter, and became popular after its launch. Friemann & Wolf soon became the world’s largest manufacturer of mining lamps. During the same period, Lange became synonymous with Saxony’s watchmaking craftsmanship and became internationally renowned.

 The ‘Reiche Zeche’ in Freiberg was commissioned in 1384. This is the oldest mine in Saxony on record. The Himmelfahrt-Fundgrube to which this mine belongs was once the largest and most productive mine in the region, with more than a thousand horizontal roadways. Today, it is a research and training mine managed by TU Bergakademie Freiberg, an internationally renowned mining technology university.

Feminine Beauty Mido Belem Celli Women’s Watch Debut At The Exhibition

The exciting 2015 Baselworld is in full swing. As an annual ‘Oscar’ feast in the watch industry, new products are dizzying. accident. Below, please follow the real pictures of the front line of the Watch House and enjoy the new masterpieces of Mido together.

  Watch real shot show:

The metallic luster is more noble and elegant under the light.

  Mido ladies watches are stylish and beautiful in appearance, with elegant and noble colors, highlighting the unique elegance and elegance, and expressing low-key beauty around the wrist. The simple and unique central lugs and the strap smoothly connect to create a unified visual beauty, demonstrating the ultimate feminine charm.

  Watch details real shot display:

The round silver dial is textured and embodies the style of a fashionable woman.

Mido’s classic logo appears at 12 o’clock, highlighting the brand’s intentions everywhere.

The round calendar display window is small and delicate at six o’clock.

Viewed from the side, the crown has a beautiful logo and the case is of medium thickness.

The gap between the strap and the case makes the watch look more atmospheric.

The metal bracelet is easy to care for and comfortable to wear.
The folding buckle makes the watch perfectly fit the skin.

Back-through movement, to satisfy your exploration of machinery.

The automatic oscillating weight carefully sculpts the Geneva ripples and the MIDO logo.

Summary: At the same time, the special report team of the Watch House has also rushed to the site of the Basel Watch Fair to bring you the freshest and most current watch information. For more details about Baselworld 2015, please pay attention to our special report page. (Picture / text watch home Li Shuai)

  2015 Basel Watch Show Special Website:

Detailed Interpretation Of Key Features Of Pilot Watches

As we all know, there is an official standard definition (ISO6425) for the characteristics of diving watches, but another popular category-pilot watches, is not. According to the needs of the wearer, each brand has its own unique views on pilot watches. Of course, there are always some key elements that make pilot watches stand out.

   Aviator watches are popular for their practical aesthetics and legibility. Today, pilot watches are more used to show identity and taste, and are no longer instruments of aviation flight. But just like diving watches, pilot watches were born for practical purposes. It is generally believed that it was Louis Cartier who created the first pilot’s watch for Albert Santos Dumont to facilitate flight timing. The technical specifications of the earliest pilot watches were very basic, far from military watches in the mid-20th century, which shaped the design and characteristics of modern pilot watches.

The first Breguet Type 20 military chronograph watch, specially ordered for French naval aviation pilots in 1958, a total of 500 pieces, delivered in January 1960.

   Military power need not be limited to a certain brand. The French Navy, the British Ministry of Defence, the German Air Force, and the Italian Air Force often use watches from different manufacturers to the same specifications, which have spawned many legendary models such as the Type 20 and Type 21 chronographs, the Mark series and the B-Uhren wrist Table and so on.

German pilot wearing Hanhart watch

Cockpit instrument

   Take the German Beobachtungsuhren (aka B-Urh) watch as an example. This watch is very large and can reach 55 mm in diameter. The generous size is enough to cover the large manual winding movement that pocket watches are used to, but B-Urh is still a watch after all. The B-Urh watch is equipped with a soft iron inner case to protect the movement, which has the necessary anti-magnetic properties of aviation, while using Breguet hairsprings. The wearer can pull the crown, pause the central second hand, and adjust the time. The oversized diamond or onion crown can be easily operated even when wearing gloves. The B-Urh also comes with a very long leather strap that pilots can easily wear even with a thick leather jacket.

IWC B-UhrCalibre52T.S.C. Watch (Ref.IW431)

   The specifications of the B-Urh watch say it all. The size of the pilot’s watch should be large enough, the dial should be as contrasting as possible, and it should be fluorescent (matte black dial with large numbers and time scales coated with radioactive material) for easy reading. Watch operation is also as simple as possible to avoid errors. At the same time, accuracy and precision are paramount. Taking into account the harsh conditions of use, ideally, pilot watches should also be shock-resistant, anti-magnetic, and able to withstand sudden pressure drops (to prevent mirror displacement).

The IWC Mark XI watch is the inspiration for most of the brand’s pilot watches.

   Regarding pilot watches, we often encounter various doubts, such as what is this? What’s the use of that? Why is it so designed? In this article, we will introduce the key features of pilot watches in detail, hoping to bring some help to beginners.

Triangle logo

   High-contrast, clear and easy-to-read displays have always been a distinctive feature of pilot watches. The dial is usually discarded to the simplest, with striking fluorescent hands and hour markers, and Arabic numerals that can be easily read.

   The 12 o’clock position of the dial is usually set with a triangular mark-a fluorescent equilateral triangle, with a dot on each side (B-Uhr style watch). The pilot can quickly distinguish the vertical direction of the dial and find the 12 o’clock s position. Time information is clear at a glance, day or night.

Flyback timing

   The flyback timer function saves time when recording multiple periods of time and is therefore popular with pilots. Traditionally, for multi-segment timing, three steps of stop, reset and start are required, and the flyback timing function only needs to press the reset button once to complete all steps. A quick reset helps pilots perform waypoint navigation and grid search.

   Pictured above are two well-known pilot watches with flyback timing. One is the Breguet TypeXX3800ST watch, a modern version of the pilot’s watch commissioned by Breguet in the 1950s and 1960s. The second is the Zenith PilotCronometroTipoCP-2Flyback watch, inspired by the CronometroTipoCP-2 watch commissioned by the Italian Air Force through the Roman retailer A.Cairelli. Both watches are equipped with this special mechanism, as are their prototype antique watches.

Fluted bezel with red markings

   The red marker on the rotatable fluted bezel can be used as a chronograph or countdown, for example for monitoring navigation or bombing (such watches are usually military tools). Pilots rely on the map to determine the time to reach a specific location, and they can quickly read the elapsed time by pointing the red marker at the minute hand. The grooves on the bezel help achieve precise, non-slip operation.

   Pictured above are two antique military pilot watches with grooved bezels and red markings. One is the Hanhart chronograph from the 1930s. The speedometer and rangefinder scales on the bezel are used to measure navigation information such as the average speed on the runway. The second is the Tutima Glashütte Fliegerchronograph watch, which also has red markings on the bezel.

Diamond or onion crown

   In the early era of aviation, the cockpit of the aircraft was designed to be open. Pilots were exposed to severe cold conditions and needed to wear thick gloves to prevent frostbite. Proper crown design is the key to easy watch operation. Therefore, most pilot watches are equipped with huge crowns (ie BigCrown watches), with the most common onion head and diamond shape.

   Pictured above are two modern pilot watches inspired by antique timepieces. Zenith chose a round onion crown (as did the brand’s vintage pilot watches), while IWC used a sharper cone-shaped diamond crown (inspired by the B-Uhr watch).

Soft iron inner shell

   Mechanical watches are threatened when exposed to magnetic fields. Universal tool watches require protection against the negative effects of magnetic fields, especially for pilot watches, because the cockpit is one of the most magnetic environments that a watch may encounter. Traditionally, watchmaking brands use the Faraday cage principle to achieve magnetic protection: a soft iron inner case surrounds the movement and protects it from magnetic fields. For example, the IWC has commissioned the Mark XI watch, and its specifications include the use of a soft iron inner case.

Cutaway view of a watch with a soft iron inner case

   With the advent of anti-magnetic materials, modern pilot watches are becoming less and less equipped with such a heavy and space-consuming inner case. The movement parts are made of silicon or non-magnetic alloy, which has anti-magnetic properties.

Flying slider

   Flight slider is an invention of Breitling, used in the brand aviation time series. The flight slider is a mechanical calculator designed for pilots. It can be called a mini computer in the pre-digital era and can perform various types of flight calculations. The calculation is based on the fixed scale on the dial and the scale on the two-way rotating bezel. Breitling uses the rotating bezel and logarithmic scale to determine fuel consumption, speed, distance, flight time, and unit conversion.

Hour angle

Original Longines timepiece for Charles Augustus Lindbergh
   This rare feature is used to help pilots determine geographic location. Charles Augustus Lindbergh perfected the system designed by Philip van Horn Hooms, and worked with Longines to develop a timepiece. The hour-angle watch synchronizes the second hand with the radio signal, and calculates longitude based on the hour angle between GMT and true solar time.

Long stud strap

   This is a typical feature of the German Beobachtungsuhren watch (observation watch), equipped with a long studded calfskin strap so that pilots can wear it on the sleeves of flight jackets. Rivets are used to ensure that the strap is firmly fixed to the watch, as shown in the Longines Limhème watch mentioned earlier.

GMT display

   More modern, non-military features commonly found on pilot watches. The GMT display is a very useful feature for travelers traveling in different time zones, including pilots. Introduced in the mid-1950s, the Rolex GMTMaster is the prototype of the GMT watch, designed by Pan American Airlines in cooperation with Rolex to equip the crew. The GMT (or second time zone) is indicated by an additional hour hand, combined with a 24-hour dual-color day and night display bezel. (Photo / text watch home compiled by Xu Chaoyang)